In a small bowl or glass pitcher, beat eggs. Mix in brown sugar and rum. Whisk until well combined, then add zest and nutmeg. Meanwhile, heat beer to the edge of a boil. Take it off heat before it froths over. Transfer hot beer into a pint glass or glass with a spout. Pour the heated beer into the egg mixture slowly, whisking briskly. Pour the mixture back and forth between glasses, building the froth. Serve hot with sprinkled nutmeg. For an extra-foamy presentation, try a milk frother.

It’s hearty, for sure, but pretty smooth. With refined sugar, the drink is probably sweeter than colonials enjoyed. The rum gives it a good kick and, along with molasses, leaves a burnt taste that would have come from the hot poker. The darker version was a little strong for our tastes, and it does cool pretty quickly, but 40 seconds in the microwave keeps the mug warm enough for slow sipping. After a second mug you might hear echoes of revolutionary John Trumbull’s 1776 poem:

While briskly to each patriot lip
Walks eager round the inspiring flip:
Delicious draught! Whose powers inherit
The quintessence of public spirit.