In Our Winter 2018 Issue
LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER
The holiday season is traditionally a time of reflection, a time to give thanks for the positive things in our lives. Among the many things for which I am grateful – inclu...
Local Bites
Take Out: Oliva on Main Adds a Gourmet Market to its Dining Destination Status
Faith Middleton, the public radio authority on all things delicious in Connecticut, visited Oliva on Main in Bethlehem amid autumn’s blush in 2017 and was wowed by the Mediterranean and North African influenced cuisine of Chef Riad Aamar, who long delighted the culinary cognoscenti at the establishment’s former incarnation in New Preston before relocating the restaurant four years ago this November.
In a Facebook post titled OLIVA MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ A SMASH, Faith rhapsodized: “[Riad], a Palestinian American, knocked me over with a gorgeous platter of the most remarkably spiced chicken and lamb kebabs and chops paired with root vegetables, crazy-good house-made hummus, and a garlicky yogurt sauce. … I’d eat anything chef Riad makes, though many of his fans say the roast chicken is heaven on Earth. Go!” That “crazy-good house-made hummus” is the cornerstone of an evolution in progress that’s liberating lifestyles and upscaling meals for Oliva’s fans, who are now enjoying Riad’s uber-authentic and often exotic tastes at home, accompanied by a good movie or dinner table conversation with friends.
What began as a persistent demand at the original Oliva Café – “You should sell the hummus!” – encouraged Riad to launch a modest product line first showcased and sold at local farmers markets, with the Washington Depot Farmers Market eventually becoming his products’ primary venue. The good local vibes in Washington Depot – where Riad and his wife and business partner, Joanna Lawrence, are beloved – inspired a partnership between Oliva and local café The Pantry, where owner and chef Michael Ackerman hosts a cooler filled with Riad’s bespoke tastes of the sunny Mediterranean. “It works for both of us. It’s a good partnership,” says Riad, who can’t keep up with the farmers market demand and sees his products fly out of The Pantry.
The partnership is also another step on the journey toward the expansive oasis Oliva is becoming. Serving dinner Wednesday through Sunday, Oliva on Main also doubles as an emerging marketplace, opening at 3pm to accommodate folks heading home to prepare dinner.
“Since we decided on the move from our old space in New Preston, we had our mind set on finding a space for a retail business to supplement the restaurant,” Riad says. “When we decided on our current historic and beautiful building that, not too long ago, was used as a general store, market, and post office, we thought, ‘this could be it.’” The Market at Oliva on Main was born, and a cooler like the one at The Pantry now stands next to the hostess counter, filled with far more than hummus and yogurt dip, as upwards of 30 specialty products are available, including artisan breads from Fabled Foods.
For those who stop to discover the range of robust, authentic, and sublime flavors, the bounty is a culinary treasure: hummus, yogurt, tahini dip, and baba ghanouj, as well as soups, sauces for pasta, artisan breads, Kalamata or green Lebanese olives, the singularly satisfying Moroccan Eggplant, and homemade cookies (including chocolate-dipped macaroons, almond biscotti – chocolate and plain – and Oliva’s famous pinolatte cookies). There’s also balsamic vinaigrette dressing, the light, bright spinach and goat cheese tart, Riad’s focaccia with caramelized onions or mixed vegetables – and that’s just the beginning.
“We will also sell the unique ingredients which we use to create our special cuisine,” says Riad. “Examples are preserved lemons, pomegranate molasses, citric acid (lemon salt), original tahini paste, Mancha Spanish saffron, sumac, imported Italian aged balsamic vinegar, XV olive oil, traditional spices and dried herbs, dried nuts, dried grains, and more.” Also coming are specialty products from Arthur Avenue and New York City, including imported cheeses, aged vinegar, oils, herbal teas, handmade pasta, prosciutto, salamis, and sausages.
However, Riad’s retail ambitions are not limited solely to his signature sides and ingredients. “We are planning, in the near future, to offer our customers their favorite meals to take home,” he says, including dishes like his legendary Moroccan lamb shank, Moroccan chicken, and sweet potato gnocchi, as well as veal stew, eggplant ragu, marinated lamb chops, lamb kabob, chicken kabob – cooked or ready to be finished at home – antipastos, fresh salads, side dishes such as mashed root vegetables, roasted root vegetables, and still more.
“People can come in and shop for dinner,” Riad says, and maybe have a glass of wine while they browse and decide what’s on their gourmet menu for the evening. The dining space may get even cozier as the market blossoms, and the hours may evolve a bit, as Oliva on Main becomes a gourmet shopping destination, but whether enjoyed in Riad’s house or your own, the culinary experience, itself, is certain to continue to be exceptional.
> Oliva on Main: 15 Main St. South, Bethlehem; 203-266-5558
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