In Our Summer 2018 Issue
LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER
Summer is a bountiful time in Connecticut. The leafy greens of spring give way to summer’s abundant and colorful fruits and vegetables, and just about everyone is eagerly ...
GrayBarns on the Silvermine River: An Oasis in Connecticut
As dawn matures into midmorning, Rob VanKeuren carries fresh loaves of sourdough to a barn where a line of customers, flowing parallel to the Silvermine River, winds back towards a quiet road. The aroma of still-steaming bread has patrons craning their necks to take a peek, and the scene has the air of a musician making his way to the stage. VanKeuren’s entrance into the barn kicks off an hour-long sale of pastries and bread, all naturally leavened, and all sold out in 60 minutes.
For gourmands, the pursuit of quality food might once have demanded a train ride into Grand Central, but the opening of a historic – and recently renovated – tavern and inn in southern Connecticut nullifies the need for Metro Cards. At GrayBarns on the Silvermine River, visitors find a sanctuary for food that’s tucked away, but not too far away.
Atop a white café table, Chef Ben Freemole huddles over a shallow bowl to explain the construction of the Grapefruit & Avocado Salad. “It should look like this,” he says as he points to a perfect mound of grapefruit, weaving through avocado, speckled with blasts of fiery Fresno Chili peppers and crispy shallots. It’s this attention to detail and dedication to balance that makes Chef Freemole’s dishes worth the Brooklyn-length brunch lines that crowd GrayBarns just before their doors open.
The interplay between Freemole’s flavors and textures produces dishes in which the components bounce off each other for the ultimate bite. Guests return to the tavern again and again, devouring the menu like a favorite book series. Changing seasonally, the menu (which has experienced numerous iterations since opening in 2017) features the best of what local farms, and sometimes backyards, have to offer. “One of our managers takes a month off every year to harvest ramps,” Freemole says, illuminating a passion for the ingredients that are responsible for the delectable dishes.
“The less time and distance it takes for food to make it from where it is grown, the better the dishes will taste,” he explains, and summer’s bounty is given a spotlight on the menu. Working with producers like Sport Hill Farm (in Easton) and Sparrowbush Farm (in Hudson, NY), ingredients promise to be fresh. But it’s really the vegetables from the garden on the Tavern grounds that endure the least travel time from soil to plate. Raised beds separate the Tavern from the Inn and grow a grocery list of herbs and lettuces, steps from the kitchen. Birds lend their song to the soundtrack, setting the tone on the summer bar, where the fresh scent of mint wafts over in waves. It’s the most ideal and idyllic location to sip on The Prancing Pony — a grown-up’s lemonade cocktail — concocted of Buffalo Trace Bourbon, yellow chartreuse, honey, fresh lemon, and mint.
As birds’ chirps fade with the sun, a piano in the tavern welcomes guests with melodies that evoke the Hollywood royalty that once dined on the property. (Lauren Bacall Bogart is said to have called the area “quaint,” and Elizabeth Taylor honeymooned at the inn before it was GrayBarns.) The faint piano follows guests to their tables through a dimmed dining room, towards a glowing fireplace, and into linen-draped booths that offer relief to bare legs in the humid months of summer. The dining room is full by 7pm, and it’s easy to taste why.
A flurry of ricotta salata settles over reginetti pasta and is freckled with lemon zest, an accoutrement to a dish similar to sprinkles on ice cream; a mere touch elevates the entire dish. The Tavern’s Crab Toast finds a pâté of the signature ingredient evenly coating the face of a plush slice of sourdough. From the brunch menu, Carrot Cake Waffles are accessorized with mascarpone and a trove of berries, and the Crab Fried Rice will make any sweet tooth swear to the savory side of things. Freemole, with roots in Montana and a resume stacked with New York City restaurants, nods to Connecticut for inspiring the menu. “Connecticut is beautiful and bountiful,” he says. “Being able to use amazing seafood, local and seasonal ingredients, and serve them in such a historical and beautiful environment is unbelievable.”
The modern iteration now enjoyed as GrayBarns was developed by the Glazer Group and underwent a two-year renovation starting in 2015. Built around 1800, the area once attracted an artist colony, and the building spent time as a textile factory before becoming a speakeasy. But the past is not lost on GrayBarns. In fact, the Inn graciously respects and preserves it. The windows of the Addison room (all six guest rooms are named after the artists who once occupied the colony) look out onto a weeping willow that waves above the Silvermine River. The soft room has a natural, easy flow to it that embraces comfort without compromising style or quality, even while the grandiosity of the building’s original beams and fireplaces demand admiration.
Once settled into the tranquility of the Addison room, it could be difficult to muster the incentive to get back up. Thankfully, the lure of the Tavern’s fare proves to be ample motivation. As Connecticut’s superhero sourdough baker shutters the barn bread sale, the lights stay bright, and the show continues into brunch service. While nobody stops to stand and applaud, the flow of guests upon GrayBarns on the Silvermine River serves as well as a standing ovation.
Whether an international guest or a couple allotting themselves a night away, the Inn accommodates year-round travelers. The Tavern serves dinner Tuesday–Saturday, 5pm-10pm, and Sunday 5pm-8:30pm. Brunch is served on Sunday, 11:30am-2pm.
GrayBarns on the Silvermine River: 194 Perry Ave., Norwalk; 203-580-1900
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